The lure of visiting a new country (#46) and an airfare deal way too good to pass up brought me to Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Though I was battling a serious case of jet lag after three week’s work in the US, I chose to ignore my insomnia and follow my sense of adventure.
A quick 2-hour flight from Singapore with Jetstar brought me up to Southeast Asia mainland, where I touched down in the small country of Cambodia. After landing in the capital city, I did what most travelers do upon arrival: exchange money. I figured my Singapore dollars weren’t going to get me too far in a country that used “Riel”, so I switched over a few large notes for a hefty stack of colorful Cambodian bills. When I received my prepaid taxi slip from the kiosk in the airport, I noticed something strange about the price… it was quoted in US Dollars.
It didn’t take me very long before I realized that no one in Phnom Penh (and probably Cambodia as a whole) actually wanted Cambodian Riel; USD was the preferred currency. A country that has you change your native bills into local notes, only to change those into another foreign currency… you got me there, Cambodia.
After settling into my hotel, I decided to take off for the sites of the city. TJ of old would have gone to the hotel reception, ordered an air-conditioned, hotel commissioned tour guide, and seen the country in in a bit of a "tourist bubble". But looking for the real Cambodian experience, I opted for something a bit more local:
After agreeing on a price for the day with the driver (who kindly asked to be paid in USD, of course) we sputtered off into the streets of Phnom Penh. First stop: A Coca-Cola vendor.
We pulled up to a makeshift stand on the side of the road, where 1 & 1.5 liter glass Coke bottles stood for sale. Inside the ancient bottles was nothing that resembled the world’s most famous beverage though. When I asked the driver what the watered-down yellow liquid was inside, he casually responded “Petrol.”
Only a few weeks before I was sitting at a full-service Mobil station in the US, where you can’t leave your car running or talk on your cell phone during fueling. Now I was sitting at a “self-service” gas station in Cambodia, buying a Coke bottle filled with gasoline for a Tuk Tuk. Amazing!
With Gas-O-Cola fueling the Tuk Tuk, my driver brought me to the first couple sites of the day: Phnom Penh’s infamous Killing Fields and Genocide Museum.
I must admit, before visiting Cambodia I had very basic knowledge of the Khmer Rouge, Pol Pot and the genocide of the Cambodian people. But after walking through the Killing Fields and standing inside the S-21 school-turned-torture center, I was (sadly) made much more aware. The number of victims and the percentage of Cambodia’s population that was wiped out during the Khmer Rouge regime is staggering. Both sites I visited were a chilling, yet an important history lesson on something that will hopefully never be repeated again.
Though I was glad to have visited the Killing Fields and Genocide Museum, I told my Tuk Tuk driver I was ready for something a bit more uplifting. We hit the dusty streets of Phnom Penh once again and this time aimed for the Royal Palace.
Being the residence of Cambodia’s kings since the 1860’s, ‘Royal Palace’ perfectly describes this opulent complex. From the architecture to the grounds, everything about the palace is absolutely stunning.
As I walked around the golden buildings and soaked in the royal atmosphere, I was also surprised at the religious aspects of the complex. Home to an amazing Emerald Buddha statue, the Royal Palace’s Silver Pagoda is clearly one of Cambodia’s most important Buddhist temples. What I found most interesting though, was the clear roots and displays of Hinduism inside the temple as well. Instead of creating a division between the two, the palace almost seems to celebrate both its Buddhist and Hindu roots. The whole complex felt like a spiritual melting pot, beautifully combining both religions together under one roof.
As I walked around the golden buildings and soaked in the royal atmosphere, I was also surprised at the religious aspects of the complex. Home to an amazing Emerald Buddha statue, the Royal Palace’s Silver Pagoda is clearly one of Cambodia’s most important Buddhist temples. What I found most interesting though, was the clear roots and displays of Hinduism inside the temple as well. Instead of creating a division between the two, the palace almost seems to celebrate both its Buddhist and Hindu roots. The whole complex felt like a spiritual melting pot, beautifully combining both religions together under one roof.
With spirits high from the gorgeous Palace, my driver and I decided it was time for some sustenance. It seemed he knew just the place to go for a great meal and soon pulled up along the roadside. The menu:
Did I eat this? Let’s be serious. I may be adventurous, but I’m not looking to eat insects for dinner (just yet). I did take some nice photos of this ‘local cuisine’ though, which I’m certain will stay with me much longer than if I had eaten it.
Instead, I opted for the café next door!
Here they served up authentic, bug-free Cambodian cuisine, in a nice cozy setting. What tasted like Thai Food (my favorite!) mixed with Indian spices, the local Cambodian fare left me pleasantly surprised.
Perhaps anything would have looked good after grasshoppers and silkworms, but I wrapped up my day in Phnom Penh feeling stuffed, satisfied, and a little more cultured than the day before.
A couple of years ago, I am not sure if I could have identified Cambodia on a world map. But now I certainly can and am glad I went to my country #46!
== T.J.==
